Bustiers, Beading, and Human Hair, Oh My!

I finally made it to the Brooklyn Museum for the special Jean Paul Gaultier for an incredible retrospective of his work, from the time he began his storied career in 1970 up to the present day.  The exhibit, entitled The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gautlier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk, hosts a remarkable collection of his couture works.  A long time avant-garde designer, Gaultier's works stun, awe, and inspire.  A true master of his craft, Gaultier's work creates just as much stir as today as it did when he began producing his collections. 

A bustier detail of "Le Bal des sirènes" gown from Gaultier's 2008 spring/summer collection, "Mermaids.

Featuring over 160 of his designs from his most notable collections, the exhibition space was massive.  I could have easily spent the entire day there, and almost did.  Highlights included stunning metallic gowns from Gaultier's "Mermaids" collection, tons of genius and painstaking bead work that will have you doing a double (or triple) take, and pieces worn by the likes of Madonna and Queen B herself, whom I share a birthday with. Go Virgos, go!  Gaultier has mastered materials from neoprene, to leather, to metal, and even human hair.  Yes, HUMAN HAIR.  Which, JPG, if you're reading, I'm willing to donate to your cause in exchange for this rocking pair of beaded trousers:

Hand beaded trousers by Gaultier, and the object of my affection.

The couturier's upbringing, being surrounded by strong women, is reflected in his nearly 45 years of work.  A womens and menswear designer, he plays with the themes of androgyny in many of his collections.  A backless striped-knit top for a man, a crocodile top coat with a long tail for a woman.  His work empowers the female dresser, but also let's men dabble in a fashion sensibility long forgotten since the days of dandies.  A staple throughout his decades of work is, of course, the corset.  The garment which once constricted, and mutilated, womens' bodies, Gaultier has reimagined as a symbol of female equality.  Women can choose, not be forced, to wear the corset, and to wear it as a both a fashion and political statement.  Madonna, one of his long time friends for whom he has designed countless pieces for, found that the notion of wearing the corset over her clothes as one of empowerment: what once was worn under your clothes, in an act to hide your flaws and perfect yourself for men, is now exposed for the world to see.  

A design with the iconic "cone" shaped bustier Gaultier crafted for Madonna.

Now, one can't bring up Madonna without mentioning the infamous "cone bra."  While Madonna made the piece famous, Gaultier had been perfecting this piece since childhood.  Raised by his mother and grandmother, Gaultier was no stranger to ladies undergarments. Taking inspiration from their style, one of the first garments he made was a cone bra.  This first one made from scraps of paper, sized for his beloved stuffed bear, Nana.  Though it would take him until the late 70s to get recognized for his daring designs–and his famed collaboration with Madonna not until the 90s–Gaultier's fashion genius was there all along.

Nana, Gaultier's childhood stuffed bear and original muse.

The exhibit was absolutely breathtaking, and I'll add more photos from my visit when I've sorted through them all.  I highly recommend going, and soon!  The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gautlier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk is a traveling exhibit, on view at the Brooklyn museum until February 23rd. Visit Brooklynmuseum.org for ticketing information!